Kimchi making-the traditional family way

Recently, I was kindly invited to take part in a Korean family Kimchang ceremony. For those of you unsure, this procedure involves the preparing of kimchi for the next year. Usually it involves Chinese cabbage, being washed, prepared, and mixed with various spices before being stored, ready to be eaten at a later date. Before being involved in this process, I was unaware how important it was to Koreans and to what extent it played a large part in their lives. I arrived at Jeehee's grandparents home on the saturday evening. Not only was it my first time to partake in such a festival but it was also my first time to spend the night in a Korean family home. I was surprised to have such a warm greeting from Jeehee's grandmother, however later on, I realised I shouldn't have expected anything less. The warmth and importance of being involved in family activities in Korea, is very overwhelming. After being invited inside, and cordially taking off my shoes and sitting on the floor with the whole family (grandparents, father, brother..) I was invited along with Annie, (my Hong Kong companion) to kneel on the floor and bow in front of both elders. It was new and a little embarassing for myself, however I soon realised that everybody took this very seriously and it was nothing to be ashamed about at all. After enjoying a rather traditional evening watching korean dramas and English premier league football ( hehehehe :p) I retired to my room to be greeted by a nice warm floor!!!

I was up very early in the morning to prepare to make the Kimchi, as early as 6 I heard uncles and aunties already preparing for the day's hard work ahead. As soon as Annie and I had been treated to a quick breakfast, (the usual rice, vegetables and a quick drink), we were out into the yard to prepare the kimchi.Yet, first things were first I slipped into my professional Zipel apron (courtesy of Samsung ;) ) , my ajumma style gloves and got ready to dive in.

The way the system worked, Jeehee informed me was very heirarchical. In her family especially only married couples and elders were able to involve themselves in the mixing of the spices with the cabbage...the chore of cutting the roots away from the cabbage was left to the 'youngsters'. Jeehee, her brother, Annie and myself. Although this may seem a little unfair, the system was still very exciting, I eagerly watched the ajummas work away consistently, almost effortlessly perched perusing the cabbage and making the mixing look like an exotic art!!!! However, it took myself a lot longer to make the cabbage chopping look like perfection!!!!

After a long hard morning of working, we finally finished, preparing over 200 cabbages. We then had to continue packaging all of the kimchi into freezer boxes to be packed into the specialized kimchi refrigerators, both for Jeehee's grandparents, her own close family and her uncle...yet, the best was yet to come.

A long hard day well spent, we quickly retreated to the dining table to enjoy a sumptuous meal. I don't know whether it was the hard work, but the food tasted truly delicious....I am sure if Jeehee's cooking is anything like her families she will make a great housewife someday!!! :P hehehe

I fondly look upon that time at the house as being a very great experience, enabling me to get a lot closer to Korean culture, I even had a short calligraphy session!!!!

G20 Kimchi festival

When we recall the recent events of the G20 in Seoul seldom do people ever think of Barack Obama, Hu Jin Tao, David Cameron and Angela Merkel sharing good times over a bowl of kimchi but believe me.....IT HAPPENED. I was invited to attend a kimchi festival hosted my Samsung during the last weekend of the G20 to celebrate the political event happening at the time.



Kimchi, (for all of those who are unfamiliar with this infamous korean dish) is a particular kind of cabbage which is pickled in a variety of ways as a perfect sidedish for any Korean meal. There are over 20 different kinds of Kimchi within Korea, and each area of Korea has it's only special version. During this festival, myself and some fellow students were invited to make Seoul-style Kimchi with the help of our very own Ajumma, dressed up in Hanbok.Little did me and my fellow EWHA exchange students realise what we were in for when we signed up for the Kimchi festival...however, after being in Korea for a couple of months now, we should have realised that anything involving 'Samsung' and 'G20' shouldn't be taken lightly!!


After arriving at the venue in the City Hall square, we were met by a barrage of photographers and staff keen to get us to the outdoor tables where we would be instructed on how to make kimchi. Having been quickly put into our very own official Samsung kimchi fridge merchandised overalls we were ushered to the tables, complete with kimchi ingredients and bowl, along with our own clan of paparazzi. Willing to take photos of the foreigners interacting with the nation's most loved food.

The paparazzi were everywhere!!!!

Me with my prepared Kimchi ingredients.

The Ajumma and our Kimchi crew!!!

My finished product!!!

To say the least, it was an experience I would never forget, although the process seemed very simple; we were given already prepared ingredients and simply had to coat the individual leaves of the  cabbage in the mixed ingredients (consisting of mixed seafood, paste, peppers etc.) it was a very hands on approach and even in such a short time I felt very familiar with my beloved ajumma. So much so, that she was regularly hand-feeding me pieces of kimchi in front of photographers probably from 'World Kimchi weekly' or 'The official Korean side-dish association'. I won't lie, I loved the attention and very soon I, and my group felt we had contributed a great deal to the prominence of this little red and green dish. :P And definitely, in the future I would take it more seriously...far more seriously!!!

UK PM David Cameron's very own kimchi dish during the G20 summit!!!

Barack's dish.....nice and big just like the guy!!!

Gardens of Gwangju-Soswaewon

Gardens have never been high on my priority list...a childhood being dragged around a garden centre by my mother looking for plants does this to you. However, on a trip to Gwangju I found a Joseon style garden that had the rare opportunity of grabbing my attention completely and giving me a true glimpse of oriental philosophy, ideology and lifestyle...
Don't get me wrong, I would lie if I was to say I had never experienced the strong confuscian elements displayed in other historic sites in Korea, but as a foreigner, I found soswaeson offered me that chance to truly understand it.

 For those of you keen on history and background information (not so keen on flora and fauna like myself!) Soswaewon was a garden constructed in the middle of the Joseon dynasty period (the last dynasty in Korea) by a guy called Yang San-bo in the late 1520s,  and renovated in the 1700s by his descendants. Unlike Yang San-bo's personal history which included him being exiled and then killed in a political purge, Soswaewon is a truly beautiful place and one that is far from the concrete blocks of Seoul.

For those of you who are tourists seeking a true oriental experience, Soswaeson is a place to come, even if it does feel like being in a movie. It is situated just outside Gwangju near the mountainside and requires a short walk up a fairly steep hill to reach it. However, before you have even reached the garden itself you are met with a 'House of flying daggers' style forest of bamboo which immediately helps to put you in a contemplative mood, forgetting the tiresome train journey and the stress of organising your day trip!! The beauty of the infinite green can't help but fill you with calm! Even for a worried, anxious person like myself!

There are three pavillions within the garden itself, which were originally used for the purpose of entertaining guests, study, and simply contemplation. Activities which were highly important to the yangban (noblemen) of the time. Sitting on the wooden platforms looking out over the streams and autumnal trees it is impossible not to be envious of them. The structure of the garden and the ideas behind it were very fascinating also, fluently explained to me by Mr Park, a Gwangju local and a guide who admitted to me of frequently visiting the site. I know if I was in his position, retired, and considering my place in the world, it would definitely be my first port of call if I needed to think!!

The garden's position does everything it can to help the viewer feel consumed in nature. The Joseon way of building the pavillions on a slope, complementing the natural layout helped to add to this. The various walls, bridges and paths were all built around the flowing streams, the trees and any other natural phenomenon. Mr Park also helped to explain to me the Joseon idea of nature and how the garden was neither inside or outside, supporting the viewer that human living should be in harmony with nature, and that outside or inside did not exist. According to Mr Park walls were built not simply to keep things out but to help obscure your view, and focus your mind on the beauty of the garden, and allow you to focus. I tell you, these kind of garden's would definitely help my revision!!!!

In conclusion, I had a thoroughly good time in Soswaewon, and would definitely recommend it to anyone seeking contemplation while in Korea. Although it may not appeal to everyone and be on the top of everyone's list while visiting Gwangju, just take half an hour out of your day to visit this sight and I can guarantee you will feel a little bit lighter in spirit even if it's for only a moment... :)

'Rock On'-The Dolmens on Ganghwa Island, Korea.

Now when Jeehee told me we were going to visit a group of rocks in the middle of Ganghwa island, a famous Korean tourist destination, you can probably see why I was a little unimpressed. If somebody told you that you had the choice between visiting the De-militarized Zone and a bunch of stones I think I could guess where you'd go. Wait...actually, I KNOW where you'd go! (Unless you're a keen geographer, geologist or have a rather unsual interest in rocks ;) ) However, the dolmen sites at Ganghwado offered me so much more than I expected. Firstly, I knew nothing about the prehistoric history of Korea, and the dolmen museum offered many interesting facts and figures about the megalithic period and the importance of these Korean sites today. Little did I know that we were actually visiting a UNESCO heritage site. As soon as I heard this, I quit with my moaning and dived in to join the experience.

Korea is actually famous for housing over 40-50% of the world's . And that's a large amount..over 30,000!! Dolmens can be found all over the world in all shapes and sizes, the the sheer quantity of them in Korea intrigues anthropologists, and archaeologists alike. Why should so many dolmens be found here? Is it due to their rich shamanistic, ritualistic heritage or another reason? This is still a question that intrigues many people today. Dolmens come in various shapes and sizes and look like large stone tables to the unknowing tourist. Professors claim the dolmens were built during the Neolithinc period and were used as burial chambers and ritualistic sites in which tribes would bury their nobility and pray to their ancestors.While we were at the dolmen sites, it was very difficult not to question the amazing construction effort that must have been made to build them. As you can see from the photos they dwarf us all! Especially the capstone!!! Within the dolmen centre you are able to view a variety of boards which explain in colourful and funny pictures (for those of us who don't read Korean) the construction of these sites by the Neolithic peoples within this period.

To make the dolmens site even more interesting, the landscape surrounding the dolmens is not one to forget. The reasonably flat plains looking onto the typically elegant Korean mountains, adds a pleasant calmness to your trip.You can also take a walk around the main dolmen site and view replics of various dolmens found around the world. However, I must admit these are only of miniscule proportions compared to the real thing. Although this may not be as intriguing as the two major dolmen sites themselves, it helps give the beginner dolmen enthusiast a better perspective. Who knows.maybe one day we will discover the reason why Korea has so many dolmens...I'm sure whatever the answer, it will make this already mystical country seem even more wonderful....

FOR THOSE KEEN ON  VISITING THE DOLMEN SITES-

If you're keen on visting the dolmen sites yourself don't hesitate to check out the Korean tourism website or even the Ganghwa dolmen homepage: Visit Korea-Ganghwa page

There will be a festival to celebrate the dolmens in Ganghwa island from the 23rd to the 24th of October 2010- Ganghwa dolmen festival 

For more information about the dolmen sites in Korea-

About the Korean dolmen sites

UNESCO world heritage website.